How to Get Rid of Groundhogs: Fencing, Trapping and Burrows

Quick answer: To get rid of groundhogs, make your yard hard to live in and impossible to raid: remove brush piles and tall cover, protect gardens with a 3- to 4-foot wire fence buried 12 inches with an outward-bent L-footer, and block the space under decks and sheds. If one still has a burrow, confirm it’s empty, then fill and wire it shut. Live trapping works but is regulated by state law, so check the rules or hire a licensed wildlife operator.

If you’re searching for how to get rid of groundhogs, you’ve probably seen the damage: vegetables mowed down overnight, a big hole with a mound of dirt beside the shed or a burrow creeping under your deck or foundation.

Groundhogs (also called woodchucks) are persistent, but they’re predictable. They want food, cover and a safe place to dig. Take those away and they move on. Here’s the step-by-step plan, the traps that work, the legal side of trapping and the safety points you shouldn’t skip.

Signs you have a groundhog

• Large burrow entrances: holes about 10 to 12 inches wide, usually with a fan of fresh dirt at the main entrance. Burrows often have one or more hidden “escape” holes with no dirt pile.
• Garden damage: plants eaten down to stubs, especially beans, peas, lettuce, squash, melons, carrot tops and clover.
• Digging near structures: holes under decks, porches, sheds, patios and along foundations.
• Daytime sightings: groundhogs are active during the day, mostly early morning and late afternoon. A chunky, brown animal about the size of a large cat waddling back to a hole is a strong clue.

Burrows can run many feet underground and several feet deep. Beyond the lost vegetables, they can undermine patios, shed floors and foundations, and the open holes are a tripping and mowing hazard.

When are groundhogs most active?

Groundhogs are true hibernators. In much of the US, they go underground in late fall and come out in late winter or early spring. They mate soon after, and young are born in spring, staying in the den until early summer.

That calendar matters. Trapping or blocking a burrow from about April through June risks orphaning babies trapped underground. The best windows for removal are early spring (before young are born) and late summer to early fall (after they’ve left the den). In fall, groundhogs eat heavily to prepare for hibernation, so garden damage can spike.

How to get rid of groundhogs: step by step

1. Find every burrow. Walk the yard and the edges of your property and mark each hole with a flag. Look under decks, sheds, woodpiles and hedgerows.
2. Remove cover and food. Clear brush piles, tall weeds and rock piles. Keep grass mowed, pick up fallen fruit and harvest ripe vegetables promptly. Groundhogs feel safest where they can hide.
3. Fence the garden. Use 3- to 4-foot woven wire or sturdy welded wire with openings of 2 inches or less. Bury the bottom 10 to 12 inches and bend the buried part outward about a foot in an L shape, so a digging groundhog hits wire. Leave the top 12 to 15 inches loose and floppy (not tied to posts) and bent outward, so a climbing groundhog tips backward.
4. Block under decks and sheds. Screw hardware cloth or welded wire along the bottom of the deck or shed skirting, then extend it at least a foot underground and a foot outward with the same L-footer. Do this only after you know no animal is inside (see step 5).
5. Test whether a burrow is occupied. Loosely plug each entrance with crumpled newspaper, leaves or a little loose soil. Check after two to three days. If the plugs are undisturbed (and the weather has been warm enough for groundhogs to be active), the burrow is likely empty.
6. Encourage a groundhog to leave. If the burrow is active, and it’s outside the baby season, make it unpleasant: disturb it daily by filling the entrance loosely, adding a bright light or a small radio near the opening and repeating the vacancy test. Many groundhogs move out within a week.
7. Close empty burrows for good. Once a burrow tests empty, fill it with gravel and soil and pack it down, or bury a piece of heavy welded wire mesh over the opening, extending at least a foot past it in every direction, pinned and covered with soil. Near a foundation, use the L-footer method so they can’t dig around it.
8. Live trap if needed and legal. For a stubborn groundhog, a large live trap works well (see below). Check your state wildlife agency’s rules first.

How to live trap a groundhog

Place the trap on a flat spot 5 to 10 feet from the main burrow entrance, along the path it uses, or at a gap in the garden fence. Bait with fresh cantaloupe, apple slices, sweet corn, lettuce or peas. Set the trap for a few days with the door wired open and bait out to let the groundhog get used to it, then set it. Cover the trap partly with a cloth or burlap to keep the animal calm and shaded.

Check the trap at least twice a day, and never leave a trapped animal in full sun, heat or freezing temperatures. Wear thick gloves and keep your hands away from the mesh when you move a trap. Two-door traps can make groundhogs more willing to walk in because they can see straight through.

Live trapping is regulated. Many states classify groundhogs as game or nuisance wildlife with specific rules: some require a permit, some ban relocation entirely, and others require release on the same property or humane euthanasia by a licensed wildlife control operator. Relocated animals also often die in unfamiliar territory. Call your state wildlife agency or county extension office before you trap. Rabies caution: groundhogs are among the rodents most often reported with rabies in the eastern US. Never handle a groundhog with bare hands, keep kids and pets away from traps and burrows, and call animal control if an animal is acting strangely (unusually aggressive, stumbling or unafraid of people). If anyone is bitten or scratched, wash the wound with soap and water for several minutes and contact a doctor right away. Make sure your dogs and cats are up to date on rabies vaccines.

What about gas cartridges, poison and repellents?

Burrow fumigant cartridges exist, but they’re pesticides with strict label rules and a real fire risk, and they must never be used under or near buildings, where most problem burrows are. There are no registered poisons for home use against groundhogs, and poisons put pets and wildlife at risk. If you want lethal control, leave it to a licensed professional.

If you consider a fumigant cartridge, follow the label exactly: it can start fires in dry grass, must not be used under decks, sheds, porches or within the distance from buildings the label specifies and should be kept away from kids and pets. Check state rules first; a pro is the safer choice.

Repellents such as castor oil granules, capsaicin sprays and predator urine get mixed results. They may nudge a groundhog to a different part of the yard for a while, but they wash out with rain and rarely stop a determined animal from raiding a garden. Ultrasonic devices have little evidence behind them, and motion-activated sprinklers may startle a groundhog for a while before it adapts. Use these only as an extra layer on top of fencing and cover removal.

The equipment that helps

A good fence is the single best investment. If you need to trap, choose a trap large enough for a groundhog, since smaller traps can injure the animal or fail to close.

Both traps are sold for humane catch-and-release, but whether you can release a groundhog elsewhere depends on your state. For a broader look at yard wildlife and insects, see our guide on how to get rid of pests in the yard.

Groundhog, mole or vole?

Not every hole or ridge in the lawn is a groundhog. Use this quick check before you choose a fix:

Animal	What you see	Main damage	Best fix
Groundhog	Holes 10–12 in. wide with a dirt mound; animal seen by day	Gardens eaten, burrows under decks and sheds	Fencing with L-footer, cover removal, live trap where legal
Mole	Raised ridges and volcano-shaped mounds, no open hole	Tunnels in lawns and beds	Scissor or harpoon traps in active runs
Vole	Small, open, golf-ball-size holes and surface runways in grass	Chewed roots, bark, bulbs	Mow short, remove cover, snap traps, tree guards
Rat	Holes 2–4 in. wide near foundations, woodpiles, compost	Contamination, chewing	Sanitation, sealed bins, traps in covered stations

If your problem is ridges and mounds rather than open holes, see how to get rid of moles in the yard. For smaller holes near the compost or foundation, see how to get rid of rats in the yard.

How to keep groundhogs from coming back

• Keep garden fencing up year-round and check the bottom edge and floppy top every spring.
• Install L-footers of wire mesh around decks, sheds, porches and patio edges before a groundhog moves in.
• Keep grass mowed and clear brush, woodpiles and rock piles near the house.
• Pick up fallen fruit and harvest vegetables as they ripen.
• Walk the yard in late winter and early spring to spot new holes early, before young are born.
• Fill and wire abandoned burrows right away: an empty burrow invites the next groundhog, skunk or fox.

When to call a professional

Call a licensed wildlife control operator if a groundhog is burrowing under your foundation, slab, porch or shed, if you’ve found burrows with young in late spring, if your state doesn’t allow homeowners to trap or relocate, if the animal appears sick or aggressive (possible rabies) or if you’re not comfortable handling a trapped animal. Pros can legally trap, set one-way exclusion doors and install exclusion barriers. If a burrow has already undermined a patio, stairs or foundation, have a contractor check it for structural damage.

Frequently asked questions

What is the fastest way to get rid of a groundhog?

The fastest reliable method is a properly sized live trap placed near the burrow and baited with cantaloupe or apple, combined with fencing so a new groundhog can’t take its place. Trapping is regulated by state law, so check with your state wildlife agency first, or hire a licensed wildlife operator who can handle the animal legally the same week.

What smell do groundhogs hate?

Groundhogs are said to dislike strong smells such as garlic, pepper, castor oil and predator urine, and some products use these as repellents. Results are mixed, and rain quickly washes them out. Smells may keep a groundhog away from one bed for a while, but a buried wire fence is what actually protects a garden.

Will a groundhog leave on its own?

Sometimes. A groundhog may move on if food and cover disappear or the burrow is disturbed often. But a burrow with easy access to a garden and shelter under a deck is prime real estate, and they can stay for years. Removing cover, fencing the garden and closing empty burrows make it far more likely they’ll leave for good.

Is it legal to relocate a groundhog?

It depends on your state and sometimes your county. Many states prohibit releasing trapped wildlife off your property without a permit, and some require that nuisance groundhogs be euthanized by a licensed operator. Relocated animals also have low survival rates. Call your state fish and wildlife agency before you trap.

Should I fill a groundhog hole?

Yes, but only once you’re sure it’s empty. Loosely plug the entrance and check after two to three days of warm weather. If it’s undisturbed, fill it with gravel and soil or pin heavy wire mesh over it. Never fill an active burrow in spring or early summer, because young may be inside.

Are groundhogs dangerous to dogs?

Groundhogs usually flee, but a cornered one will bite and scratch hard with sharp teeth and claws, and they can carry rabies. Keep dogs leashed or supervised near burrows, make sure rabies vaccines are current and see a vet if your dog tangles with one.

Next step: protect the rest of the yard with our guide on getting rid of moles in the yard, or deal with summer stingers using how to get rid of wasps.