How to Get Rid of Weeds Between Pavers (and Keep Them Out)

Quick answer: To get rid of weeds between pavers, pull or scrape them out roots and all, flame or scald any stubborn regrowth, then refill the joints with polymeric sand so seeds have nowhere to root. Boiling water and household vinegar only burn the tops of young weeds, and salt can damage pavers and nearby soil, so skip it.

Learning how to get rid of weeds between pavers usually starts with frustration: you pull them in May, and by July the cracks are green again. That’s because most paver weeds grow from seeds that land in the sandy joints, plus a few tough perennials with roots deep in the base.

The fix is two-part. Remove what’s growing now, then take away the growing space. This guide walks you through both, with honest notes on popular home remedies and clear fire-safety rules for flame weeders.

What causes weeds between pavers?

Pavers are laid on a compacted gravel base and bedding sand, with sand swept into the joints. Over time, rain, pressure washing and foot traffic wash some of that sand out. Wind and water fill the gaps with dust, leaves and organic debris, which turns into a thin layer of soil.

That soil stays moist in the joints, and it’s the perfect nursery for wind-blown seeds. Common culprits include crabgrass, spurge, clover, dandelion, plantain and chickweed. In shady, damp spots you’ll also see moss and algae, the outdoor cousins of the growth covered in our guide to getting rid of mold and mildew.

Weeds are often a symptom, not just a nuisance. If they keep coming back in the same lines, the joints are probably low on sand, or water is pooling on a sunken section. Standing water on a patio is also a mosquito nursery; our guide to getting rid of mosquitoes in your yard explains why.

How to get rid of weeds between pavers: step by step

Pick a dry day, ideally a day or two after rain when the soil in the joints is still slightly moist and roots slide out more easily.

1. Sweep the surface first. Clear leaves and debris so you can see every joint. A stiff push broom works well.
2. Pull young weeds by hand or with a crack weeder. A narrow, hooked crack-weeding knife or an old flat screwdriver slides into tight joints and lifts out roots. Aim to get the whole root, not just the top.
3. Use a stand-up weeder for taprooted weeds along edges. Dandelions and other taprooted weeds in wider joints, gravel borders or lawn edges come out cleanly with a four-claw stand-up puller like Grampa’s Weeder. You step down, twist and lift out the plant with its root.
4. Flame the stubborn ones. For dense patches or weeds you can’t get out cleanly, a propane weed torch kills top growth in seconds. You don’t need to burn the weed to ash; pass the flame over it for a second or two until the leaves turn dull and wilt. Repeat every two to three weeks for perennials, since roots can resprout. Read the fire-safety rules below first.
5. Or scald them with boiling water. Carefully pouring boiling water into the joints kills young annual weeds and costs nothing. It works best on small areas near the house. It won’t kill deep perennial roots, so expect some regrowth.
6. Rake out the old joint material. Once the weeds are dead, scrape out the dirty, organic-rich sand with your crack weeder or a narrow tool to about 1 inch deep, or as the polymeric sand label directs. If you pressure-wash, use a fan tip and keep it angled so you don’t blast sand out from under the pavers.
7. Let the pavers dry completely. Polymeric sand needs a fully dry surface and dry joints. Give it at least a day or two of dry, sunny weather.
8. Refill the joints with polymeric sand. Sweep the sand into the joints, compact it by tapping or with a plate compactor per the label, and top off to just below the paver edge (typically about 1/8 inch below the top or bottom of the bevel). Blow every grain off the paver surface with a leaf blower, then mist with water exactly as the label says. Once cured, it forms a firm joint that resists weeds and ants.

Propane weed torches produce an open flame of well over 1,000 degrees and can start fires fast. Never use one during a burn ban, drought or high wind, or near dry grass, mulch, pine straw, leaves, wood fences, decks, sheds, siding or anything else that can ignite. Check your local fire rules before you start. Keep a charged garden hose and a fire extinguisher within reach, wear closed-toe shoes, long cotton pants and gloves, and keep kids and pets well away. Check hose connections for leaks with soapy water, keep the propane cylinder upright and away from the flame, and never use a torch near a gas meter, grill tank or poison ivy (burning it releases irritating smoke). After you finish, soak the area and watch for smoldering for at least 30 minutes.

Does vinegar kill weeds between pavers?

Here’s the honest answer. Household vinegar (about 5% acetic acid) burns the leaves of small, young annual weeds on a hot, sunny day. It doesn’t reach the roots, so perennials like dandelions come right back. Stronger horticultural vinegar (20% or more) works faster but is caustic: it can burn skin and eyes, so wear gloves and eye protection and follow the label. Vinegar can also etch or dull natural stone like limestone and some concrete finishes, so test a hidden spot first.

Should you use salt?

No. Salt kills weeds by poisoning the soil, but it doesn’t stay put. Rain carries it into your lawn and beds, where it can damage plants for years. Salt can also speed up surface damage on concrete pavers, especially in freeze-thaw climates.

What about weed killers?

Chemical herbicides can help with large areas or tough perennials, but they’re pesticides with real trade-offs. If you use one, pick a product labeled for hardscapes, follow the label exactly, and apply on a calm day so it doesn’t drift onto lawn or garden plants.

Herbicides and horticultural vinegar are hazardous. Read the full label, wear gloves and eye protection, keep kids and pets off treated areas until dry (or as long as the label says), never spray on windy days or before rain, and store products locked up and out of reach. Don’t mix products together.

The equipment that helps

A few tools make this job much faster. For flame weeders especially, pick the size that matches your patio, not the biggest flame you can find.

For the tight joints themselves, a simple crack-weeding knife and a bag of polymeric sand rated for your joint width are the other two essentials.

How to keep weeds from coming back between pavers

Prevention is mostly about keeping the joints full and clean:

• Keep joints topped up. Low joints collect debris and seeds. Check every spring and refill with polymeric sand where needed.
• Sweep regularly. A weekly sweep removes seeds and organic debris before they settle in the gaps.
• Fix drainage. Redirect downspouts away from the patio and re-level sunken pavers so water doesn’t pool. Damp joints grow weeds and moss.
• Pull weeds early. Tiny seedlings come out in seconds. Letting weeds go to seed guarantees a bigger crop next year.
• Be gentle with pressure washers. They’re great for cleaning but can strip joint sand. Refill afterward.
• Seal if you like the look. Some homeowners apply a paver sealer after re-sanding, which can help lock sand in place. Follow the sealer maker’s timing after polymeric sand.

Working on the rest of the yard? Our guide on how to get rid of moles in your yard covers lawn ridges and mounds, and if mosquitoes are ruining patio evenings, see our picks for the best mosquito trap and patio repellers.

When to call a professional

Call a hardscape or paving contractor if pavers are sinking, heaving or rocking, if weeds keep returning in the same lines after re-sanding (often a sign of base or drainage problems), if the patio is large enough that re-sanding means renting a plate compactor, or if polymeric sand has hazed or failed and needs to be removed. Skip the flame weeder and call a pro or use hand tools if you live in a high fire-risk area, there’s a burn ban, or the patio borders wood decks, fences or heavy mulch.

Frequently asked questions

What is the best way to get rid of weeds between pavers permanently?

There’s no truly permanent fix, but you can get close. Remove the weeds with their roots, clean out the old joint material, and refill with polymeric sand, which hardens and leaves no room for seeds to root. Then sweep regularly, keep joints topped up, and pull any seedling as soon as you see it.

Does boiling water kill weeds between pavers?

Yes, for young and annual weeds. Pouring boiling water into the joints cooks the leaves and shallow roots, and it’s chemical-free. It won’t reliably kill deep-rooted perennials like dandelions, so expect some regrowth. Pour slowly and carefully, wear closed-toe shoes, and keep kids and pets well away from the kettle and the hot surface.

Is a weed torch safe to use on pavers?

It can be, with care. Concrete and stone pavers handle brief flame passes well, but don’t linger on one spot, since sealed surfaces and polymeric sand can discolor with prolonged heat. The bigger risk is fire: never use a torch near dry grass, mulch, wood fences or during a burn ban. Keep a hose and extinguisher nearby.

Will vinegar damage my pavers?

It can. Vinegar is an acid, and repeated use can etch or dull natural stone like limestone and some concrete finishes. It also only burns the tops of young weeds rather than killing roots. If you use it, test a hidden spot first, rinse the pavers afterward, and wear gloves and eye protection with stronger horticultural vinegar.

How long does polymeric sand last?

Properly installed polymeric sand often lasts several years, depending on climate, traffic and drainage. It lasts longest when the joints were fully cleaned, the sand was compacted, the surface was completely dry during installation, and water was applied exactly as the label directs. Check joints each spring and touch up low or cracked spots.

Why do weeds keep growing between my pavers?

Usually because the joints have lost sand and filled with soil and debris, which gives seeds a perfect place to sprout. Shade and poor drainage make it worse. Pulling weeds without refilling the joints just clears space for the next batch. Cleaning out the joints and refilling with polymeric sand breaks that cycle.

Next, tackle the lawn: our step-by-step guide on getting rid of moles in your yard shows how to find active tunnels and trap safely.